The most common way to belay from the top after leading a pitch is directly off the anchor with an auto blocking plate. This technique has many advantages but one disadvantage is that if the climber weights the rope, it’s hard to pay out slack. In this week's tech video with Outdoor Research and Petzl, IFMGA guide Patrick Ormond demonstrates several ways to defeat a loaded plate. | American Mountain Guides Association
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New rule on home-plate collisions put into effect
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